Adjustable Maker Pipe Mini Updated: 8/29/21 Printed now with PLA, models remade and oriented on their sides for strength. Well, I took a crack at remixing the Maker Pipe Minis to get a worki...

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Maker Pipe Minis#MakerPipeBOTMAdjustable

Adjustable Maker Pipe Mini

Updated: 8/29/21
Printed now with PLA, models remade and oriented on their sides for strength.

Well, I took a crack at remixing the Maker Pipe Minis to get a working Adjustable. I think it worked!
Here are a few specs:

1. Same compatible dimensions for coffee stirrers (tested, works great).
2. Made the hinge out of what is basically a compressed through hole from a T. The mating part uses partial sphere “bumps” which you snap over the hole for a friction fit.
3. Rotates smoothly. If you want it to be solid, a drop of CA glue would do the trick.
4. Hinge works in full 180 degrees, so you can model parallel conduit.
5. Printed on side.

Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.

I uploaded STL files to Thingiverse as a remix. (Remixed here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943938
Mine uses mm dimensions, but originals were imported into TinkerCAD in inches, since I read that was an issue for some people.

Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.

7 comments

Liked by Jake Lewis and 3 others

Jake Lewis

2 years ago

Really cool Randy! I’m excited to print some and try them out.

Randy

2 years ago

Please do. I am curious about the strength of the legs that need to snap over the hole for the hinge. . . Oriented upright it prints great without any supports, but snapping the pieces together flexes the “arms” apart along layer lines which is probably weaker than if they had been printed with the filament running lengthwise.

I could widen those arms so they would touch the print bed, but then they would not swing full 180 without lengthening the other part with the slotted hole. . .

I could also just make the top of the T through hole narrower overall. . . I may make a revised version now that I am thinking about how to improve it, but for now, it works!

Randy

2 years ago

Ok, I think I got it. I extended the fingers part such that it is flush with the through hole which should allow printing on its side. Going to switch to PLA and try that now (new picture attached).

If it works I will update the STLs on Thingiverse.

Randy

2 years ago

Ok, as I suspected, the print orientation makes a difference in PLA. I printed the puzzle clamp part on its side and it is nice and strong, but the end clamp snapped apart along the layer lines, so trying that again on its side which is a little tricky given the round bottom. I am going to slice a bit off to make it flat for better adhesion. . .

But I think the fit will be OK. . .

Randy

2 years ago

Updated original post. Thingiverse now has both STL files for the end clamp and the puzzle piece clamp. Works OK for me. Give it a try!

The parts print on their sides now, and PLA works fine—no longer splitting on layers when you snap them together. It was not an issue with PETG. In any case, they are consistent with the other minis now.

I tried a print-in-place hinge so they would already be assembled but they fused together. I suppose the tolerances are just too tight for that. I could add space, but then they would be too loose. As it is, you need to add glue to the hinge point if you want them to hold at a specific angle.

Deeper sphere “bumps” might create more friction, but I found this made it harder to snap the pieces together and it was keeping the puzzle clamp side flared out a bit. Maybe someone else can improve them, but I think they might be fine for mockups.

Jake Lewis

2 years ago

Randy Awesome! We are going to print some out and mess around with them. I will report back!

Randy

2 years ago

So, I just printed about a little batch of five of these. . . 10 little parts on the print bed. Two came loose right as it was finishing and they are salvageable, but I am finding that at a .2mm layer height optimized for speed vs. quality (using Prusa Slicer, Mini+, PLA)—my parts require some fiddling to get them to move once connected. The connection is great—it is nice and solid, no play at all and decent friction. In fact, they are hard to separate once connected. However, the layer ridges and small strings tend to affect motion at the hinge somewhat. I find that the end clamp part benefits from a bit of sanding around the hinge end to smooth out that curve, and depending on strings, a but of smoothing out over the hinge hole helps a bit.

I have to admit, I have not done a lot of 3D printing of parts designed to move together like this, but it seems a little fiddly. I think this might be the balance between a really loose hinge vs. a night, tight, friction joint that holds its position somewhat. We could loosen up the model, but that has pros and cons. I am curious what you find Jake Lewis with yours. I am sure the printer, the filament and the slicer settings all make a difference with something this small.

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