Adjustable Maker Pipe Mini
Updated: 8/29/21
Printed now with PLA, models remade and oriented on their sides for strength.
Well, I took a crack at remixing the Maker Pipe Minis to get a working Adjustable. I think it worked!
Here are a few specs:
1. Same compatible dimensions for coffee stirrers (tested, works great).
2. Made the hinge out of what is basically a compressed through hole from a T. The mating part uses partial sphere “bumps” which you snap over the hole for a friction fit.
3. Rotates smoothly. If you want it to be solid, a drop of CA glue would do the trick.
4. Hinge works in full 180 degrees, so you can model parallel conduit.
5. Printed on side.
Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.
I uploaded STL files to Thingiverse as a remix. (Remixed here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943938
Mine uses mm dimensions, but originals were imported into TinkerCAD in inches, since I read that was an issue for some people.
Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.
Updated: 8/29/21
Printed now with PLA, models remade and oriented on their sides for strength.
Well, I took a crack at remixing the Maker Pipe Minis to get a working Adjustable. I think it worked!
Here are a few specs:
1. Same compatible dimensions for coffee stirrers (tested, works great).
2. Made the hinge out of what is basically a compressed through hole from a T. The mating part uses partial sphere “bumps” which you snap over the hole for a friction fit.
3. Rotates smoothly. If you want it to be solid, a drop of CA glue would do the trick.
4. Hinge works in full 180 degrees, so you can model parallel conduit.
5. Printed on side.
Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.
I uploaded STL files to Thingiverse as a remix. (Remixed here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943938
Mine uses mm dimensions, but originals were imported into TinkerCAD in inches, since I read that was an issue for some people.
Please try them out and make improvements if you want. Perhaps there are better ways, but this seemed like the simplest.
I could widen those arms so they would touch the print bed, but then they would not swing full 180 without lengthening the other part with the slotted hole. . .
I could also just make the top of the T through hole narrower overall. . . I may make a revised version now that I am thinking about how to improve it, but for now, it works!
If it works I will update the STLs on Thingiverse.
But I think the fit will be OK. . .
The parts print on their sides now, and PLA works fine—no longer splitting on layers when you snap them together. It was not an issue with PETG. In any case, they are consistent with the other minis now.
I tried a print-in-place hinge so they would already be assembled but they fused together. I suppose the tolerances are just too tight for that. I could add space, but then they would be too loose. As it is, you need to add glue to the hinge point if you want them to hold at a specific angle.
Deeper sphere “bumps” might create more friction, but I found this made it harder to snap the pieces together and it was keeping the puzzle clamp side flared out a bit. Maybe someone else can improve them, but I think they might be fine for mockups.
I have to admit, I have not done a lot of 3D printing of parts designed to move together like this, but it seems a little fiddly. I think this might be the balance between a really loose hinge vs. a night, tight, friction joint that holds its position somewhat. We could loosen up the model, but that has pros and cons. I am curious what you find Jake Lewis with yours. I am sure the printer, the filament and the slicer settings all make a difference with something this small.